This is an historic day. Not because of the Chicago riots or the economic train wreck in Europe. I am speaking, of course, of my own cleaning of my apartment. Realize I don’t spend that much time here, though in the last two months more than the twelve months prior. I’m either at my parents’ house or J’s, or a friend’s house in another city. I usually get someone in every four months and had someone in when I showed the vacant second bedroom to roommate prospects. But there is no denying that when left to my own devices I do manifest the shiksa slob tendencies of my mother in her youth. It’s not horrible but not something which would pass muster either with my father or J, who as dissimilar as they are in many respects, are both Jew with OCD about various things including neatness and cleanliness.
Readers of Victorian Chick and Facebook will know that Dad heroically rescued me from the strange (to me) fate of a roommate. I have lived alone my entire adult life except for one semester at Yale. Of course, it is much easier to keep a house or apartment clean when you never eat or sleep there. It only took about an hour and as I posted on Facebook, much to the amusement of my friends, I didn’t get hysterical and start sweeping or mopping floors: no sense in going overboard with this cleaning fetish. But I am happy I saved 60 bucks or so and I didn’t have much to do carless waiting for Saab to report back on the a/c. (Still no word, which can’t be good so I thought I would blog.)
Pico Iyer was extraordinary. He began with a funny joke about all the “disappointed souls” in the audience who must have planned to see John Cusack at UCSB before a last minute cancellation. (I was such a soul, but far from a disappointed one.) As I wrote this week, I heard him in 1993 at a Master’s Tea at Yale in Davenport College, which turns out to have been his only time at Yale though he lived in Manhattan during his Time magazine days.
I was in Berkeley College (BK) and had I been assigned to Davenport College (DC), my social life would have been very different. The singles in BK are not habitable even post-renovation which made everything much nicer of course but did not alter room size. And I had taken off three semesters off after my first term, so I was out of the roommate lottery. I loved having that gorgeous 10th floor studio apartment in the Taft with a tiny view of Long Island Sound from my large kitchen (strangely large kitchen for a studio which of course was of no consequence to me as I didn’t cook much, but more then than at any time post-college), but it did isolate me somewhat.
Iyer is the only person I have ever heard who speaks more quickly than I do with more attenuated (but far more crafted and elegant) syntax. I absolutely adore him, though I have no desire ever to visit a Third World country, with the possible exception of beach resorts in Central America where you get the beauty of the Caribbean at a fraction of the cost. (I know, I know, you’re not supposed to say that; it’s “developing countries.” But does it really matter to a dirt poor country if you bullshit them into thinking they are ever going to be anything other than a dirt poor country in the Third World?)
J lived and volunteered in Costa Rica during a high school summer with a lovely family he still keeps in touch with via Facebook. My very good friend’s son is finishing up a 2 -year gig (post-law school) in Moldova for the Peace Corps. I am with J: if you are going to visit or live in a Third World country, it should at least be warm and have decent produce and a beach. That would definitely rule out Africa and with the exception of South Africa, I have no notion of why anyone would go there. My friend from 7th grade at Westlake to the middle of med school at Harvard and my Masters program at UCSB traveled a lot. Her parents, a wealthy gastroenterologist and late-in-life boutique immigration attorney in Beverly Hills, went on one of those 5 star safaris. Unless Robert Redford were part of the package (shampooing of hair optional), I’m not interested. (Klaus Maria Brandaer would do.) Similarly, the idea of going to an Islamic country intrigues me about as much as cleaning a toilet.
As for the First World, I’m very bourgeois and lacking in the spirit of adventure. I’m not really interested in traveling to Asia (maybe Japan if I could fly business but flying steerage, as my father calls coach or economy class, for 20 hours, no matter how much Ativan I popped, also does not appeal to me). I don’t want to go to Russia or Eastern Europe either. I don’t have a burning desire to go anywhere in the Middle East, with the possible exception of Tel Aviv (and again, only business or first; I won’t do steerage to Israel).
I have never been to the European continent (just England twice and Ireland once) and of course this is something I intend to do sometime in my 40s or 50s, but it is not financially in the cards for me to travel to more than one place, perhaps, in 2013. I could go but it would mean not traveling to New York every two months and even with cheap Orbitz tickets and no rent, my New York sojourns rule out transatlantic travel.
In 2013, I want to go both to London and to the Lake District, ambling across the countryside where Wordsworth and Coleridge developed and articulated their vision of Romantic poetics. I’d love to see the Moors which gave rise to the Bronte sisters’ dark, imaginative masterpieces, along with the bleak, beautiful landscape which informed Hardy’s consciousness and resulted in his tragic vision, from Tess of the D’Urbervilles (my first Hardy novel) to the almost unreadable Jude. Hardy is also a great poet though fewer know him for his poetry. I want to return to Ireland and visit Edinburgh for the first time.
Eliot often said that the best Brits were Scots, more so of course after she met her beloved friend and publisher, John Blackwood, along with Johnnie Cross, her dear friend and later husband of less than two years prior to her death in 1880. My landlord is of course the exception which proves the rule, as he is quite ghastly and never tires of reminding me of his Scottish heritage and his poor coal miner father. I’m not convinced this gets him out of providing me with heat and a garage space as promised in the lease for years on end, however sorry I am that his father was so poor.
I’m an Anglophile, what can I say? But someday, I very much want to visit Spain, Italy, Greece, Germany, and France. However, my utter lack of interest in “challenging” travel–Yemen or Oman, for instance–interferes not at all to my appreciation of Iyer’s profound vision of what travel does for the self and the soul alike. Iyer embodies kindness and joy in a way which even his elegant and sophisticated written language cannot fully convey.
Physically and emotionally, he seems relatively unchanged in twenty years. The core message of his new book–The Man Within My Mind–is that travel’s deepest meaning involves an inner journey sparked by the outer one. Iyer anchors these reflections in an exploration of Graham Greene’s fiction, which I’ve not read. I’m far less good on 20th-century fiction than the poetry and prose (both fiction and nonfiction) of the 18th and 19th centuries. (And you wonder why I’m not fabulously rich with this oh so useful store of knowledge cultivated over many years?)
His story of the kind elderly man in Yemen who risked his life to get him to the north from the south when his flight was delayed by four days (which could have been four months, apparently) was but one of his moving tales about the kindness of strangers. Sometimes the help came with a price or at least, an agenda, as with the Bolivian nurse who wanted help with a green card, or the man in another distant land who wanted his passport so he could see the world, reasoning that it would not be hard for Iyer, an American at the time, to procure another.
I was moved, however, by his comments about Yemen which of course we in America, post-9/11, understandably consider the incarnation of evil. Iyer claims that in a population of 24 million people, 700 Al Queda are hiding in Yemen, with an addition 10,000 assisting them. And I am sure you have to visit some of these places to realize emotionally what you know intellectually: not all Muslims are out to destroy the West. Of course, there are the Jihadists and they are evil.
But in so many of these countries, there are the powerless poor who worry about the same things Americans do: how to feed, clothe, shelter, educate, nurture their children. While I will take Iyer’s word for it, in part because I think the point of a vacation is to be happy, not depressed about the totally fucked up state of the world, I do see the value in his message about the humanizing influence of travel to “unpleasant places.” I just don’t do unpleasant here in America, much less abroad. I have neither the need nor the ability to drop a few grand on a vacation to be reminded that the world is full of pain and poverty about which I can do nothing.
I can’t wait to read Iyer’s book, along with some of the fiction he discusses therein. Iyer has a fabulous sense of humor, a kind and wry wit and understated but powerful presence and I could not have been more thrilled to speak with him afterwards for about five minutes, while he signed my book and I told him about seeing him twenty years ago with my mother in New Haven. Iyer was very funny in talking about English graduate school and before that the choice of English as a major, as a means of delaying entry into the real world. What I wouldn’t give to spend an evening hearing him talk about British poetry and fiction! He asked if I had majored in English at Yale or merely switched to English for grad school and I told him that I had. He sighed as if in recognition that the early 1990s were the tail end of one of Yale English’s golden ages. I was blessed.
Last night’s dinner at Wine Bistro, my first time there since the Montecito institution, Piatti, closed its doors early this year, was tremendous. It’s not cheap with entrees in the mid-20s and low-30s and appetizers in the mid-teens. But the flatbreads and some pastas and “favorites” are in the mid-to-high teens. You can fine a few wines for just 7 or 8, but more are in the 10 to 12 range by the glass, which is perfectly normal in Santa Barbara. The bread, both a sourdough and a multigrain in small slices, is outstanding with the sweet, fluffy butter. I adore the renovation of the internal patio and the food is vastly better than Piatti ever was, in my view the least good fine dining Italian in Santa Barbara or Montecito, though hands down the prettiest. J did not take pictures of the restaurant itself, so when I get back from the city, I will go in and take a bunch.
I had an excellent gazpacho and summer succotash side (all sides are 8 and that’s the way to go if you’re watching the bill). J had a wedge salad as good as any I have seen, with tomato, bacon and blue cheese dressing, along with a great minestrone with chive oil. I loved it. The chicken pot pie, which two men at the table next to us ordered, was beautiful and fragrant. All the fish and the meat looked and smelled beautiful and I am very much looking forward to returning to the bar and ordering the Santa Barbara Winery Sauvignon, munching on bread and soup and healthy sides. (I have pictures of all of this which WordPress will not, maddeningly, allow me to upload at the moment.)
My apartment is clean but my car is frightening, so I will cut this short and call Saab for the bad news about my a/c. I don’t have a good feeling about this! I still have to pay for my Luigi summer intensive jazz dance workshop and get to the pool before 4, though I still have one non-primetime pass left for the year. (They only give you two and I refuse to pay 20 dollars for a swim when I’m already overpaying, even with the discounted membership!)
I’ll blog tomorrow on the plane! Happy Friday!



































